Greenhouse cooling

There are several ways to lower the temperature in the greenhouse itself One of the simplest methods is to open the door at both ends and the wind that blows lowers the temperature in the greenhouse itself Another way is to install a shade net, which also reduces the temperature in the greenhouse The third way, which should be the first, is to choose a greenhouse We were looking for a smaller greenhouse, and found a DIY metal structure and a ready-made nylon with doors and windows in the package.

As for the heating at night, since ours can be close to zero at night. We solved that with a small heater with a maximum power of 2 kW. So that it maintains the temperature at about ten degrees in the greenhouse itself and at about 15 degrees in the incubator. As for the electricity consumption, I'll see on the bill for this month. It has never worked at maximum and has a timer that regulates the switching on and off itself and we hope that it won't be too bad in terms of electricity consumption.

But what we saw as a dangerous problem is the cooling of the greenhouse when it is 20 degrees Celsius or more outside. It is small so it heats up quickly. The shade net manages to reduce the temperature by a few degrees but not enough. As for drafts, the greenhouse construction itself does not allow the best air circulation. The door is on one side and on both sides there are small windows, but on the supporting side of the door there is no other door but a nylon net. so even when all the windows are raised and the door is open, there is still circulation inside. As for the heater, it also has the option to only operate the fan but it is weak for this job. We thought about cutting the nylon net to open another door but we are worried about how to secure it from the wind, since the wind here can cause a lot of problems.

That's why I approached solving the problem with a do-it-yourself option. I owned an industrial fan, I was repairing some industrial fans for my neighbors and instead of charging, I took one and an additional fan protection. I planned to repair the fan for the workshop and put it all in a shell, but it didn't work out, it was sitting in the attic for two seasons and I worked in the workshop in the morning or evening when the temperatures were lower.

I just adjusted the second protection a little so that it lays on the fan and does not interfere with the motor turning and yet provides protection so that someone's fingers are not hit. And I attached it all with screws, maybe the screws are oversized but I had them available. and they matched the holes where the fan was normally attached to. Regarding connecting the cables to the fan motor. It's not a problem, I'm an electrician. And there's a wiring diagram on the box. If you have some basic knowledge, it shouldn't be a problem to connect. Connect the ground wire to the ground,which is usually yellow-green in color,PE mark.The blue wire is the zero, mark N.As for the Phase (usually black or brown), you connect that wire to the capacitor wire. All the wires come out of the capacitor and they connect to the motor windings, which are black and brown. You connect your power wire to one of these two connections. And the direction on your fan depends on that. Usually you have a picture of an arrow that defines the direction of the fan. And you can also use the arrangement of the fan blades to determine which way it should turn.

Since the fan can reach up to 1500 revolutions per minute, it turned out to be incredibly powerful. I had to take it out of the greenhouse and put it on a stand so that it wouldn't hit the plants too much and just move the air.I mounted it on a stump and secured it with a couple of slats, screws, and ties.Simple construction but tested and stable in place. It has proven to be very useful and reduces the temperature very quickly. So we will use it only when necessary. Although I have a few more ideas on how to mount it but for now it will remain like this. We will see if there is a need to change anything.